Modern Asparagus has been derived from Asparagus Officinalis

Modern Asparagus has been derived from Asparagus Officinalis which is native to Europe.

It originally grew in coastal sand dunes. Today Asparagus Is grown In a wide variety of soil types and climatic conditions. In Western Australia Asparagus is grown from Albany to Kununarra. in sand and Karri loam. The one common factor in all locations is the soil MUST be well drained.

Asparagus is unique amongst vegetables in,that it is a true perennial cropping for up to 20 years from a single planting.  A wide range of soils are suitable for the crop,but it does best in deep well drained loams. Ample water is required in sandy soils, but in other types water is not a major problem. Heavy poorly drained clay soils are not considered suitable for the crop.

As the crop is such a long term prospect, thorough preparation is both important and sensible. Ensure that perennial weeds like couch, sorell, nut grass, oxalis and docks etc are totally removed.

General: Asparagus is a herbaceous perennial plant in the south west the foliage dies down whilst the crown and root system survive until the warmer weather retums. The shoots (spears) are produced from the underground section called the crown. This is supported by a mass of fleshy storage roots. These roots are attached to the crown which is made up of many buds. when dormancy is broken (soil Temperature 8-10 C )spears grow from the buds. if allowed to develop the spears develop into tall attractive fern like fronds. The ferns produce carbohydrates which are stored in the fleshy roots, this in turn provides the substrate to produce the new seasons spears. The greater the root reserve the more spears can be harvested.

Site and Soil: The prime requirement for Asparagus cultivation is to have well drained soil. Asparagus respond well to soil structure being enhanced with application of organic matter. animal manure mixed with straw or sawdust is most beneficial. The pH level of the soil is best at a range of 6 to 6.7 especially in sandy soils. Asparagus are partially tolerant of salini1y in soil and irrigation water.

Asparagus are not as affected by wind as other vegetables but it is desirable to provide wind protection for the early spring winds which could damage newly emerged spears.

The best position for the Asparagus Plot is in a sunny well drained posit as crops in shaded sites begin cropping late in the season.  Selecting a site which will increase the soil temperature early in spring will produce earlier crops.

Planting:     Planting can be done from July to September. however the eartier the better.

The preferred method for the home garden is to prepare a trench 30 to 35 cm deep and 30 cm wide. Lay 10 to 15 cm well rotted manure or compost in the bottom of the trench. Add a complete vegetable fertiliser to the trench (if needed) and cover with 8 cm of good top soil to cover the fertitiser and manure. Mound the soil along the centre of the trench. Place the Asparagus crowns over the mound spreading the roots either side of the mound. Plant the crowns 35 to 45 cm apart. If more than one bed is made they should be 1.2 to 1.5 m apart. Fill in the trenches to ground level. Mulch over the Asparagus rows will help increase soil temperature and retail soil moisture.

Care: Asparagus should be fertilised with a high nitrogen fertitiser in spring prior to spear emergence and again at the end of harvest. Spear production will be promoted if the beds are kept weed free. At the end of the season cut and remove the old dead ferns. Asparagus beds should be kept moist from the first appearance of spears until the ferns have browned off.

Pests: There are a number of pests that attack Asparagus. These include

Brown headed weevil larva
African black beetle
White-headed weevil larva
Garden weevil
Wireworm larva
White fringed weevil
Redlegged earth mite
Snails and slugs
Control measures are similar to other garden vegetables.

Harvest:  Do not cut any spears in the first, year after planting from any variety. In the second year only take the first 2 or 3 spears from Mary Washington, but if the UC 157 Hybrid variety is used up to 6 orB spears can be taken. From the third year onwards all spears can be taken until mid December, when all cutting should cease, to allow top growth to replenish the ,crowns for the following season. 

Spears may require cutting every second day in warm conditions, but not as frequently when conditions are cooler. Cut the spears off below soil level, usually when the spears are around 15 to 20 cm. long, but before the tips start to open up.

The tops that deveiop after cutting ceases should be allowed to remain until it turns yellow in late autumn,when it should be cut down and removed. At this stage the bed should be cleaned up and fertilised for the next season.

In subsequent years you can cut most of the spears but make sure you leave ferns to develop late in the season to ensure the crown is built up for the next season.

Eating: Asparagus looses quality very quickly. it is very important to cool spears to 1 C as quickly as possible. Asparagus will keep longer if kept moist at 1 C. Asparagus is best if eaten soon after harvest.

Tips: Try asparagus raw it is delicious or alternatively cook it for a very short time. enough only to heat it either in a microwave or steamer. 

Varieties: MARY WASHINGTON 500. A reliable rust resistant variety that has been the main commercial and home garden variety for the past 30 or more years. I, is resistant to Asparagus Rust.
DC 157 Hybrid. A very vigorous hybrid variety that comes into full production a year or more earlier than older types. Rust resistant. Rapidly becoming the main variety grown.

Acerola, or Barbados Cherry

Acerola, or Barbados Cherry, is the second highest known natural source of Vitamin ‘C’ or ascorbic acid, exceeded only by Rose Hips. An ornamental shrub growing to around 3 metres, Acerola puts on a fine show of colour through summer as the fruits mature from green through pink to red and finally a scarlet, almost black red colour ..\. Rose pink to rosey purple flowers look similar to a crepe myrtle. Because the fruits have very thin delicate skins and are easily bruised this is not a fruit that will be commonly seen on the markets. It is, however, an ideal type to grow at home where the fruit can be processed or eaten as soon as it ripens

The fruits are around the same size as the European Cherry and have distinct ribs running around the fruit vertically. Plants grown from seed tend to be tart or slightly acidic even when ripe. However new cutting grown plants are now available where the fruit becomes sweeter as it ripens. Flavour resembles the crab apple and is certainly good eating if the example I tasted last year is anything to go on. The flesh is soft and juicy and can be eaten out of hand or processed in the kitchen into purees, juices, which can then be turned into jellies and jams etc. Sliced pieces of Barbados Cherry can also be frozen very successfully or mixed with other fruits in a fruit salad. Acerola commences bearing from seedlings in around three ~r four years. Cutting grown plants will produce in around two years.

It’s important to harvest the fruit as soon as it’s ripe and care must be taken to avoid bruising the thin skins. Rather than produce all its fruit at once, Acerola has intermittent crops through summer and in fact may produce two or three distinct crops through the season.

CLIMATE
Acerola originates in Central South America and while it’s able to withstand cold conditions
it certainly does best in semi-tropical climes. I recommend planting in a large tub so that in the Perth area at least as winter starts to draw close the plants can be moved to a protected site near buildings
or under shadecloth. This will enable the plant to get through winter with the least amount of trauma and be ready to come out into the full sun during spring for a rapid summer getaway.

CULTIV ATION
Acerola is a tough and versatile plant. It certainly demands a very sunny position during most
of the year. Free drainage and a position away from frosts is important. Keep the plant moving
during the warm months with a regular feeding and watering programme. If planting in the ground a heavy mulch is desirable for insulating the root zone against rapid changes in moisture and temperature.

Peter Butler on Positioning in Landscaping

There is no point in you being the ‘best’ landscaper in your district if no one knows about it.

Regular Garden Maintenance Rules!

Regular  garden maintenance rules! – Sounds obvious right! We agrre, but we also know from experiance that it’s one area that people tend to cut back on when money gets tight. Or if you do it yourself if time gets tight, or the focus and energy.

The trouble is that it only gets worse and takes a heap longer to do.

We’ve had clients cut back to a monthly maintenance regime from a fortnightly one and the short story version is that it takes twice as long. Save? I don’t think so. My take is this, don’t cut back on the regime but simply prioritise the tasks. Manage the time but don’t cut back on the frequency.

Peter Butler at 151 Forrest Place – Formal Garden Maintenance

Peter Butler at 277 Salvado Road – Formal Garden Maintenance

Peter Butler at 95 Keightley Street – Garden Maintenance

Peter Butler at 89 Bransome Gardens – Design and Landscaping

Peter Butler at 70 Philip Street – Garden Design and Landscaping

Peter Butler at 63b Swansea Street – Design and Landscaping

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