Mangoes – The King of the Fruits

mangoThe most flavour some of all tropical fruits are eaten in larger quantities than any other fruit.

Commercial Orchards are now established from Carnarvon to Kununurra.


Perhaps the best news however is that Mangoes can be grown and fruited very successfully in the Metropolitan area, in suburbs not affected by prolonged frosts. A versatile fruit it can be eaten fresh, frozen, made into jellies, jams chutney, pickles, juice and frozen confectionary.


The Tree

A handsome evergreen bushy tree, Mangoes grow to around 5-6 metres. They provide dense shade. New foliage comes through a bright burgundy colour.


Seedling trees are not recommended with one important exception, because they can take up to 8 years to crop. The exception is Australia’s most popular variety “Kensington Pride” also known as the “Bowen” Mango. Seedling trees of this variety can produce their first crops in 2-4 years. While seedlings of Kensington Pride will produce a fruit true to form, most other seedlings are highly variable. This makes another strong case for planting grafted trees, which are of course clones of desirable varieties. Grafted varieties typically fruit 2-3 years after planting.


Mangoes are self fruitful they don’t need a second tree for pollination. Mature trees will produce between 300 and 700 fruit per season. These crops are concentrated in the months of March and April near Perth. The timing of the crop means that the fruit is susceptible to fruit fly attack so it is important to carry out a simple program using Lebaycid as a cover spray.


Getting your Mango tree to establish around Perth requires a bit of extra care. I recommend a climate shelter consisting of a shade cloth surround and top cover. You can support this by 3 or 4 stakes. I recommend a structure of 1 metre diameter and 2 metres high. When the tree is pushing against this cover its time to remove it and expose the tree to the elements

Longan – Eye of the Dragon

longanCalled Dragon Eyes because of their colour, these round yellow-brown skinned fruits are much appreciated by the Chinese. Cultivated for over 1,000 years, Longan crops later in the summer than its more famous relative, the Lychee. Remove the thin shell like skin and pop the translucent white fruit into your mouth for a real taste treat.


It’s said that Longans are an acquired taste. I acquired the taste after my first fresh fruit. The distinctive musky flavour is quite unlike the Lychee. Sweet juicy aromatic Longans are one of the more exciting fruits of the future for Perth gardens. I see an excellent commercial opportunity also. The demand for Longans from Australia’s Asian population far exceeds supply, even for poorer quality seedling fruits.


Dragon’s Eyes are less demanding in their climatic and soil requirements than Lychees. Able to withstand temperatures of -4C when mature, they actually require a chilling period to achieve a fruit set. A bushy tree to around 5 or 6 metres high with a similar spread, Longan is a heavy producer.


Because of late summer cropping there is a tendency to produce alight crop every second year while the tree builds up foliage and carbohydrates for the heavy crop the following year.


How to grow Longans

Along with many other sup-tropical trees, Longans like sunny north facing locations, rich, well drained soil and wind protection. In Thailand, trees are gradually mounded up with soil to an eventual height of 2 metres to protect the tree from being pushed over by very strong winds. Longans need heavy irrigation from September to December while the fruits are filling out. Mulching the soil with organic material is very beneficial, it provides insulation from rapid changes in temperature and moisture levels.


Varieties

There has been a flood of varieties coming to Australia from China, Taiwan, Thailand, Florida and Hawaii.  Grafted plants derived from these tried and tested varieties will produce earlier and the quality of the fruit is higher.  While grafts are more costly than seedlings, the early extra investment pays off handsomely.  Grafts should produce in their 3rd or 4th year – seedlings can take 8 to 10 years.  It is too early to make recommendations about specific named varieties.  Growing trials will need to supply information about local performance.  So I can only suggest choosing a graft or two if you have space and grow your own trial.


Fruit Uses

A delicious fruit to eat fresh, Longan, according to some, is improved by cooking.  It can be bottled and dried.  Canned Longans are available and I believe taste better than tinned Lychee.  To get you into the Dragon Eye Habit, buy a can of Longans and try this unusual salad:

Dragon Eye Salad (for 6 servings)

1 Large can of Longans – drained, ¾ cup cottage cheese, 1/3 to ½ mayonnaise, 1/3 cup Pecan Kernels.

Fill cavities of Longans with Cottage Cheese.  Chill and place on lettuce leaves.  Garnish with mayonnaise and Pecans.

Feijoa

November 8, 2009 by  
Filed under Edible, Fruiting & Tropical Plants

Feijoas-200The pineapple guava has long been grown in Perth gardens for its considerable ornamental value. Some of these plants have failed to produce good eating fruits – others have produced no fruit at all. Recent importation of high quality fruit from New Zealand has prompted renewed interest. A number of com­mercial plantings are now being planned for Western Australia.

Feijoa – The Ornamental Shrub

Growing to maximum height of 4 metres, pineapple guava can be contained by pruning or growing in a tub. The glossy grey green leaves have a silver underside. Flowers are most attractive with white petals shading to purple, contrasting with the bright red stamens.

The Fruit

Green, oblong fruits have a rich fragrance when ripe. Thin inedible green skin surrounds creamy white flesh that is slightly grainy in texture. In the centre is a translucent jelly like pulp containing 30 – 40 very small seeds. Both the flesh and pulp are very well flavoured – like a blend of strawberry and pineapple  –  sweet and appealing. Feijoa juice is so strongly flavoured that it is best mixed with other juices. A very tasty and delicious jelly can be made from the pure juice. Also it can be made into an excellent wine – this is a joy I’ve yet to tryout for myself. Cut up fruits add an exotic taste to fruit salads. Talking fruit salads, the white thick petals of the Feijoa flower are sweet and good eating. They can be eaten with ice cream or added to fruit salads for a fascinating and different touch.

Harvesting

Like the Avocado, pineapple guava does not fully ripen on the bush. Choosing the time to pick the fruit therefore is not easy – particularly as it is green when underipe, and in full maturity. Some varieties show subtle colour changes as they approach maturity.

Fruits will fall to the ground when mature – this can lead to bruising and rapid rotting. When you suspect that maturity is near, gently handle the fruit. If ready it will come away in your hand. Fruit will need to be ripened at room temperature for 7 to 14 days. Ripening is speeded up by the presence of ethylene gas. Sealing fruit in a plastic bag together with an apple will accelerate ripening. Fruits that fall to the ground ripen quickly also and it is thought that the wound or bruising induces extra production within the fruit of this natural ripening gas. Cup the fruit in your hand and squeeze gently ­if it yields slightly then it’s ripe and ready for eating. Feijoa pulp freezes very well.

Varieties

The present Feijoa industry in New Zealand is based on seedling plants. Selection of superior varieties is proceeding at a rapid rate. Seedlings vary greatly in fruit quality and pollination requirements. Some seedlings are self fruitful – others need a second bush to pollinate their flowers. I recommend planting 2 or 3 seedling Feijoas to ensure cropping. The best named varieties are grafted to ensure the continuity of their desirable features. They are “Mammoth” – large oval fruits ripening mid-April and “Triumph” ­a heavy bearing bush with large smooth skinned fruits. Varieties “Large Oval” and “E4″ show promise but are yet to be fully evaluated under our conditions.

While these grafted types are self fruitful it is still recommended that you plant 2 differ­ent varieties to increase yield and ensure full sized fruits. A~ with most fruiting plants, grafted or budded specimens are worth seeking out and paying extra for – they crop earlier – more reliably – and the fruit is considerably better eating.

Growing Conditions

Feijoa is probably the hardiest of the sub-tropical fruits. It’s drought resistant and will tolerate frosts down to minus 9 degrees centigrade. Best results will be achieved in areas within 30 – 40 kilometres of the coast from Geraldton to Esperance. Free draining soils, rich in organic material, full sun locations and wind protection are essential. While it can survive drought, Feijoa needs as much summer moisture as citrus for optimum cropping. Mulching is strongly recommended.

Pest Problems

The major pests of Feijoa in Western Australia are firstly fruit fly – secondly scale insects. Regular cover spraying with Hebaycid is the most effective control of the former.  Malascale spray applied 2 or 3 times after an infestation is sighted will clear up scale insects.

Feijoa is particularly well suited to home garden growing with its exotic fruit, attractive appearance and its climatic tolerances. It , ease in growing make it an ideal starter crop for new fruit gardeners.

Custard Apples

custard-apples-200Taste of these Apples lingers on

Custard apples are an unusual fruit, which once tasted will always be pleasantly remembered. The large green skinned fruit, about the size of a grapefruit, looks anything but appealing. However, any initial disappointment is quickly forgotten when you dip into the fine custard-like sweet flesh. The fruit is virtually unknown on Perth markets, most people who have tried it have done so on trips through South-East Asia. Commercial plantings of Custard Apples have now taken place in Queensland, Northern NSW and Carnarvon in WA.

The suitability of the Perth Climate

Custard Apples originated in the cool mountainous areas of South America and are now grown throughout the tropical areas of the world. They can succeed very well in the metropolitan area where a fairly controlled micro-climate exists.  In particular they need to be protected from drying easterly winds, probably the greatest requirement for growth and fruit set. They enjoy a high level of humidity and this can be achieved in a small garden with plenty of summer moisture, especially from overhead sprinklers and heavy mulching with organic material. Custard Apples also need protection from frosts, particularly while they are young.  Mature trees can stand temperatures down to around minus 3c but a heavy frost can kill a young tree.

I’ve seen a young four metre high tree in the Perth suburb of Kensington with a crop of about 30 fruits. Custard apples are normally semi-deciduous, meaning that they lose their foliage in early spring before flowering. In cooler situations, in certain backyards they can lose all their leaves throughout winter.

Custard Apple Varieties

Seedling Custard Apples do not produce satisfactory fruit and take many years to produce any fruit at all. As such they are an unreliable proposition for the home gardener and the commercial grower. Grafted trees bear within about three years from planting and the fruit is much superior to that of the seedlings. There are two main varieties – African Pride and Pinks Mammoth. African Pride is a compact tree, will bear in its third year after planting and is more tolerant of the cold and crops on Autumn. Pinks Mammoth is a big open tree and takes up to six or seven years to produce a full fruit set. The fruits are bigger and more irregular in shape than African Pride and the quality is clearly superior.

Planting

Position is most important. Custard apples need to be planted in a sheltered position facing north to north-west to maximise winter sunshine. You can plant your tree near a cluster of other trees for protection, not only from wind but also frost. Soil preparation is essential, particularly for our sandy soils. Custard Apple trees need plenty of well-rotted animal manure such as chicken, cow or sheep incorporated into the planting hole. Mulching is essential,  to not only improve the humidity situation, but also to insulate the plant from rapid changes in moisture and root temperature. Irrigation in summer is particularly critical. The trees should never dry out and need to be watered even when established, at least twice a week. During very hot

Weather, when the temperature reaches 40c they need watering daily.

Fertilising

It is recommended that you don’t apply any fertilisers to your new plant till it shows signs of a successful take. This usually occurs two to three weeks after planting, depending on the season. The recommended feeding is at six to eight week intervals during the growing season ‘from September to April with Nurserymen’s Brand General Purpose Garden Fertiliser or NPK Blue – both have a balance of major nutrients required for growing and successful fruiting.

After Care

It is important to prune young Custard Apple trees to form a vase shape. Their natural tendency is to produce a strong leader and a conical shape. When buying your custard apple choose a plant with two strong shoots. Once these have reached 60 to 70cm in length take out the tip of each shoot with a pair of secateurs. Continue to take out these tips on subsequent growths when they reach that size. This will result in an open, spreading frame for your tree, enable it to support a big crop and allow light into mature the fruit. Mature trees should be pruned lightly in December .to promote young flower growth. Custard apples will fruit on old as well as new wood.

Harvesting

Fruits take up to six months to mature on the tree after setting. Choosing the correct moment to harvest the fruits requires same experience. However, one thing to look for is the skin between the main segments of the fruit, which changes from a green to a cream colour. Cut the fruit stem with a pair of secateurs, leaving a 3 to 5cm stub of stem on the fruit. This helps to prevent the entry of disease spores. The fruit now needs to be left for a couple of days at room temperature to soften before it is ready to eat

What can go wrong

1)         A LOW FRUIT SET ON HOT DRY CONDITIONS – you can overcome this problem by hand pollinating individual blooms. Use a small paint brush to transfer the golden grains of pollen from the male part of the flower to the sticky receptive female parts of the flower.

2)         SCALE INSECT INFESTATION – this is quickly picked up by the presence of a black sooty mould on your tree. This particular mould is attracted by the exudation of the scale insect. Spray your plant on a cool day with Malascale which is a mixture of malathion and white oil. It is important to follow up this initial spray ten days later with a second application.

3)        COLLAR ROT – it is important to avoid this problem early by planting your Custard Apple at the same height in its new soil as it was in the pot. Burying it deeper can cause a ring of bark around the bottom of the trunk to set off rot. It is also recommended that you keep mulch away from the trunk.

Babaco

1babacoA few Babaco fruits imported from New Zealand under the label, Kiwi Star Fruit are now appearing in some Fruit Stores. Weighing up to 2 kilograms it can cost around $8 – $10 per fruit. The appeal comes from the bright translucent yellow skin, the fascinating flavour which seems to combine Passionfruit, Pineapple and Paw Paw and the unusual shape with ‘ribs’ running along the fruit.

These fruits can be grown in the Metropolitan Area. While related to the Paw Paw they are more cold tolerant than their cousin and are able to withstand light frost.

You could say that Babaco is a freak of nature – it is a Hybrid producing no seed. Only the intervention of man using laboratory techniques has enabled the reproduction of the, variety. Being self fruitful only one plant is required to produce fruit.

VITAL STATISTICS.

Height – 2 m

Width – 1 m

Planting Distance – 2 m

Fruiting – Starts 1 year after planting

Fruit Ripens – October to December (Perth)

Fruit Weight – up to 2 kgs

Life Expectancy – up to 8 years

Number of Fruit Per Plant – Up to 30

Planting Time – Ideally October – March, when soil is moist and warm. (Perth)


Stage 33 – the grow pots nearly ready for the fruit trees.

September 12, 2009 by  
Filed under Aquaponics & Permaculture

The new grow pots and pipework all in situ and the new bio filter. All ready to plant up our kaffir lime and dwarf lemon.