Mangoes – The King of the Fruits

The most flavour some of all tropical fruits are eaten in larger quantities than any other fruit.

Commercial Orchards are now established from Carnarvon to Kununurra.

Perhaps the best news however is that Mangoes can be grown and fruited very successfully in the Metropolitan area, in suburbs not affected by prolonged frosts. A versatile fruit it can be eaten fresh, frozen, made into jellies, jams chutney, pickles, juice and frozen confectionary.

The Tree

A handsome evergreen bushy tree, Mangoes grow to around 5-6 metres. They provide dense shade. New foliage comes through a bright burgundy colour.

Seedling trees are not recommended with one important exception, because they can take up to 8 years to crop. The exception is Australia’s most popular variety “Kensington Pride” also known as the “Bowen” Mango. Seedling trees of this variety can produce their first crops in 2-4 years. While seedlings of Kensington Pride will produce a fruit true to form, most other seedlings are highly variable. This makes another strong case for planting grafted trees, which are of course clones of desirable varieties. Grafted varieties typically fruit 2-3 years after planting.

Mangoes are self fruitful they don’t need a second tree for pollination. Mature trees will produce between 300 and 700 fruit per season. These crops are concentrated in the months of March and April near Perth. The timing of the crop means that the fruit is susceptible to fruit fly attack so it is important to carry out a simple program using Lebaycid as a cover spray.

Getting your Mango tree to establish around Perth requires a bit of extra care. I recommend a climate shelter consisting of a shade cloth surround and top cover. You can support this by 3 or 4 stakes. I recommend a structure of 1 metre diameter and 2 metres high. When the tree is pushing against this cover its time to remove it and expose the tree to the elements

Hibiscus – A Tropical Kaleidoscope

“A West Australian Growing Guide”

These bright and cheerful plants are tailor-made for our West Australian outdoor lifestyle. When the sun is keeping us warm and we’re enjoying the pool, a barbeque with family and friends on a balmy evening under the pergola, these tropical hibiscus are in full flower. They add colour and sparkle to the hot parts of the garden from October to May with their dazzling flowers and crisp deep green foliage. While we call them Hawaiian Hibiscus many of our varieties have been bred in W.A. The term Hawaiian style refers to the more tropical types as distinct from the old fashioned varieties such as Wilders White and Apple Blossom or the deciduous Syrian types. Some folks have become addicted to Hawaiian style hibiscus plants, growing even more tricky varieties in a quest for that perfect bloom. Well there is plenty of scope for collectors as this selection shows. You don’t have to be a collector however to get pleasure from these spectacular shrubs. They are very easy to grow once you understand their requirements. With up to 9 months of flowering and an array of colours unequalled in the plant kingdom, Hawaiian style hibiscus can add razzle dazzle or a subtle fashion colour statement to your home.

How to grow Hibiscus to perfection in W.A.

Location, Location, Location, the same essentials as for buying real estate apply. Hibiscus like a full sun location. If planted in part shade they can still flourish but flower production may be reduced.

Effective drainage is essential. In clay soils aim to build raised beds or alternatively grow in pots or tubs. Hibiscus come in a range of sizes and there is quite a deal of diversity in growth habits. This means if you need a tall bushy plant to create a privacy screen, there are appropriate varieties. On the other hand if you want low growing shrubs to put below a window so they won’t blot out a view this too is possible. The variety guide will help you as we have listed the eventual size of the plant. Small means no higher than 1 metre, medium means 1 to 2 metres, tall means 2 metres plus. Try to avoid planting where there are tall trees nearby. Apart from the shade which reduces blooms, the root competition will adversely affect the growth of the bush.

Planting

Dig a hole at least twice the diameter oft the pot and slightly deeper. Mix this soil with organic matter in the proportion of 1 is to 1. Suitable soil improvers are – Groganic, Richpeat, sheep, cow or horse manure that’s been well matured (no longer has an offensive odour). When removing the Hibiscus from its pot try to disturb the roots as little as possible.

It’s recommended that you use no fertilisers in the planting hole because of the risk of burning the exposed roots. Once your plant shows sign of a successful transplant – say 2 or 3 weeks later, then you can apply a dressing of fertiliser to the soil surface and of course water it in well.

Growing On

Hibiscus are fast growing, free flowering plants that need plenty of food and water. They can exist without this level of care as can be seen in some of the older suburbs. However, you will see them in their true glory with a higher level of care.

Pruning

As Hibiscus produce their flowers on the ends of the shoots, the more shoot growth you can promote the greater the number of blooms you’ll get. Pruning your plant in early Spring will ensure a fresh flush of shoot growth for the warm months of the year. Unpruned Hibiscus become old, woody and unproductive much like roses. The method is simple, just remove one third of the total growth of the Plant. It’s a good idea to also prune off any branches that touch the ground as this helps to keep snails from moving up into the bush. In cooler areas of the South West where there is a danger of spring frosts It’s a good policy to delay pruning until early October. Exceptions to annual spring pruning are a few varieties that flower on older growth. These are the varieties Apple Blossom, Wilder’s White and Darcyii. All can be left until they become straggly, then it’s best to heavily cut back, say half of their growth. The deciduous Hibiscus Syriacus can be cut back to half of the growth in winter when the plants have lost their foliage.

Mulches

Mulching is one of the real secrets of success when it comes to growing Hibiscus in Perth’s Mediterranean climate and sandy soils. A 6 – 10 centimetre soil cover of organic material such as “Cornpost, Groganic, Richpeat or old (non smelly) animal manure will work wonders. One warning however is to avoid contact between the mulch and the main trunk of the Hibiscus as it often leads to collar rot, eventual ring barking and death of the plant.

Plant Foods

As we have mentioned, hibiscus are heavy feeders. We recommend the use of Grobrite All Purpose or Tropigro as both have a well balanced blend of nutrients with a slower release organic portion. They also contain trace elements to overcome likely deficiencies. These fertilisers should be applied once a month from September to May.

REDS/CERISE HAWAIIAN STYLE

BIG TANGO – (23-25cm) – diameter.

Single, tangerine red, edge of petals bright orange, occasionally some light orange spots. Good upright grower. Medium height.

CATAVKI – Tall – Single. Claret red, dazzling flower, 20 cm diameter, tough hardy plant to 2m.

CINDERELLA – Medium height, Single.

Raspberry red, blooms shaded white with deeper eye.

ESTRELLA RED .- Medium height, single velvety red verging on black. Large overlapped single, woody growth habit.

EUREKA – Medium height, Double, Large spectacular red, one of the Brandy Collection, Upright grower. Highly recommended.

GAYE SINGH – Medium height, Double.

Orange red, wary form free flowering. Beautiful foliage. Spectacular specimen.

MARJORIE CORAL – Medium height.

Pink with red eye. Large cartwheel overlapped single. Prolific. Ruffled and tufted. Bushy. Recommended.

VARIETIES

MOULIN ROUGE – Tall, Double. Deep cyclamen colour. Large foliage. WA. Introduction.

NORMAN RICHARDSON – Tall, Single 6″ bloom. Crushed strawberry colour. Large white centre with radiating veins. Dark green foliage.

SATU – Tall Double. Red with occasional white flecks. Fast grower, Medium textured bloom.

TANGO – Medium, Single. Tomato red halo, bright red around centre. Large flowers. Grows well.

THELMA BEN NELL – Tall, Cerise large overlapped 2 day bloom. Tall grower.

OLD FAVOURITES

CANDENII – Tall, Single. Scarlet with a deep burgundy red eye. An old variety known by many names such as Java Red, China Red etc. Recommended.

ISLAND EMPRESS – Tall Double Cerise. Very prolific and hardy.

SABRINA – Tall, double. Sport of Mrs G.

Davies. Similar strong growth. Red Flower.

PINKS

HAWAIIAN STYLE ALOHA – tow grower, Single. Bright orange large candy pink centre.

ALl UII – Medium height, Single.

Tomato red bloom splashed with lemon. Miniature overlapped trumpet shape. Prolific. Unusual.

BOOKIES BROLLIE – Tall, Single, (22 cm). Deep flamingo pink with white veins on a large area of mandarin, mottled old gold.

DELLS PRIDE – Medium height, single. (18-20 cm). Milky pink flower. Very good texture, nice foliage one of the best pinks.

DOROTHY BRADY – Tall, Double.

Pink to rose red, occasionally white streaks. Large double spectacular blooms, vigorous grower, highly recommended.

FLOWER GIRL – Medium height, single bright pink, fully overlapped.

FLAMINGO STAR – Medium height, Double. Multi-coloured rich pink with cream and yellow to apricot outer edges.

FOSTERS PINK – Medium height, Single. Available 1995. Large pale pink with mauve shading to the centre. Delicate and delightful variety.

Longan – Eye of the Dragon

Called Dragon Eyes because of their colour, these round yellow-brown skinned fruits are much appreciated by the Chinese. Cultivated for over 1,000 years, Longan crops later in the summer than its more famous relative, the Lychee. Remove the thin shell like skin and pop the translucent white fruit into your mouth for a real taste treat.

It’s said that Longans are an acquired taste. I acquired the taste after my first fresh fruit. The distinctive musky flavour is quite unlike the Lychee. Sweet juicy aromatic Longans are one of the more exciting fruits of the future for Perth gardens. I see an excellent commercial opportunity also. The demand for Longans from Australia’s Asian population far exceeds supply, even for poorer quality seedling fruits.

Dragon’s Eyes are less demanding in their climatic and soil requirements than Lychees. Able to withstand temperatures of -4C when mature, they actually require a chilling period to achieve a fruit set. A bushy tree to around 5 or 6 metres high with a similar spread, Longan is a heavy producer.

Because of late summer cropping there is a tendency to produce alight crop every second year while the tree builds up foliage and carbohydrates for the heavy crop the following year.

How to grow Longans

Along with many other sup-tropical trees, Longans like sunny north facing locations, rich, well drained soil and wind protection. In Thailand, trees are gradually mounded up with soil to an eventual height of 2 metres to protect the tree from being pushed over by very strong winds. Longans need heavy irrigation from September to December while the fruits are filling out. Mulching the soil with organic material is very beneficial, it provides insulation from rapid changes in temperature and moisture levels.

Varieties

There has been a flood of varieties coming to Australia from China, Taiwan, Thailand, Florida and Hawaii.  Grafted plants derived from these tried and tested varieties will produce earlier and the quality of the fruit is higher.  While grafts are more costly than seedlings, the early extra investment pays off handsomely.  Grafts should produce in their 3^rd or 4^th year – seedlings can take 8 to 10 years.  It is too early to make recommendations about specific named varieties.  Growing trials will need to supply information about local performance.  So I can only suggest choosing a graft or two if you have space and grow your own trial.

Fruit Uses

A delicious fruit to eat fresh, Longan, according to some, is improved by cooking.  It can be bottled and dried.  Canned Longans are available and I believe taste better than tinned Lychee.  To get you into the Dragon Eye Habit, buy a can of Longans and try this unusual salad:

Dragon Eye Salad (for 6 servings)

1 Large can of Longans – drained, ¾ cup cottage cheese, 1/3 to ½ mayonnaise, 1/3 cup Pecan Kernels.

Fill cavities of Longans with Cottage Cheese.  Chill and place on lettuce leaves.  Garnish with mayonnaise and Pecans.

Limes – “The Bartender’s Fruit”

Like lemons, limes are an acid fruit. They tend to be slightly more sensitive to cold and certainly should not be grown in frost prone areas unless some protective measures are taken. Many travellers come back from tropical climes looking to buy a green fruited lime with a strong flavour that they have found in places like Bali and Singapore.

All the limes that grow around the metropolitan area will produce a coloured skin. The West Indian Lime and the Tahitian Lime both are quite bright yellow in maturity and Rangpur is bright orange. The reason for this is that in the tropics there is sufficient cold at night time for the skin to fully colour so even when the limes are fully ripe, the skin is quite green.

Lime trees are principally used to supply sliced fruit and juice for the bar. However the bright acid juice can be used in quite a few dessert recipes as a substitute for lemons.

Lime Varieties

The West Indian Lime is a small tree with very compact dense growth. It has many small thorns and is extremely intolerant to cold conditions. The fruit remains dark green almost black until it is ready to ripen, it will eventually turn a bright yellow colour. The best time to pick the fruit is when it is a dark green but some patches of yellow are starting to come through on the skin. At this stage it is at it’s most acid. The fruit is small in size, very difficult to peel and can have either a few or many seeds depending on the cultivar. The fruit tends to drop after maturity. This is a highly acid aromatic fruit and very juicy as well. Unfortunately because of it’s climate requirements, it is not par­ticularly well suited to Perth, needing every, very warm spot and quite a deal of cold protection during the Winter. A small growing tree, it is ideal for container planting.

The Tahitian Lime is a larger tree growing about the same size as most ‘Eureka’ lemons, the fruit however is only half the size. Once again this should be harvested at the green, just turning to yellow stage. A vigorous, dense foliage tree, it has some thorns but a lot less than the West Indian Lime. The Tahitian Lime has very few to no seeds and holds quite well on the tree. It is a true acid lime in its flavour and very juicy.

Having a long cropping season which lasts some nine months it’s an ideal lime for growing around the metropolitan area where its requirement for heat is a lot less than the West Indian form. A very beautiful ornamental tree producing fragrant blossoms and very juicy bright coloured attractive fruit. Limes should not be consigned to the back yard but considered as an ornamental for planting in the front garden. While it will grow as large as a lemon, they can be contained by planting in a large tub. Limes look great around the pool side or on a sunny patio.

Rangpur is not a true lime, in fact it is more like a sour orange, a miniature one at that. The tree is medium size, spreading with slightly weeping branches. It is a vigorous extremely productive tree with slender twigs and comparatively few thorns. Very cold hardy plant Rangpur grows very well through the metropolitan area. The fruit is small to medium in size, round with a loose skin, the fruit colour is bright reddish-orange and the flesh is orange as well. It is easy to peel, has many seeds and holds for a good time on the tree making it an ornamental plant of some value. The fruit has a tender flesh and is very juicy and extremely acid. Like the other varieties, it makes a great and colourful tub plant.

For the adventurous, here is an Hawaiian recipe involving a lime marinade, which dena­tures the fish virtually cooking it in about six to eight hours.

Hawaiian Coral Fish Salad

750 grams of Snapper Fillets. Juice of three limes (or 3 lemons) 112 teaspoon salt

1 small white onion finely sliced green peppercorns, lime slices for garnishing

Remove skin and bones from fillets and slice into thin strips about 1 centimetre thick and 3 – 4 centimetres long. Place in a glass dish, add onion then cover with lime juice and sprinkle with salt.

Marinate for around 6 – 8 hours (you can leave it overnight in the fridge). This denatures the flesh turning it white as if it were cooked. Pour off lime juice and arrange fish over a fresh salad, garnish with green peppercorns and lime slices. That’s right, you don’t actually cook the fish however it is delicious I can vouch for that!

Kiwi Fruit – Chinese Gooseberry

Tasty, Tangy Kiwi Fruit

Commonly known as the Chinese Gooseberry, Kiwifruit represents the marketing triumph of New Zealand Fruit Growers.

The green flesh of the fruit is very appealing with a flavour that hints of Melon, Strawberry and Banana. When sliced thinly the fruit adds an unusual colour to deserts such as fruit salads. For me it is the ultimate garnish to one of my favourite foods – Pavlova. A versatile fruit, it can be juiced, pureed, dried, eaten fresh and – I’m led to believe – turned into possibly good wine. It also makes an interesting Jam.

As a home garden crop it has the advantages of being very productive, un­attractive to birds and fruit fly, and a quick cover for Pergolas, Garden fences or walls. The fruit stores well, helping to overcome the home garden dilemma of a ‘feast or famine.

How and Where to Grow

Kiwifruits come from vigorous, deciduous vines. As mentioned they can be grown as a cover for pergolas and fences. However, it is important to realize that the structure must be strong. A well grown vine in full foliage and fruit is too weighty for a flimsy support.

Growing Conditions

SOIL – Kiwifruit prefer a rich loam, however, sandy soil can be made into an excellent growing medium with the addition of copious quantities of organic soil addi­tives such as well matured animal manure, peat or spent mushroom compost. The proportion of organic material to sand should be equal.

Commonly known as the Chinese Gooseberry, Kiwifruit represents the marketing triumph of New Zealand Fruit Growers.

The green flesh of the fruit is very appealing with a flavour that hints of Melon, Strawberry and Banana. When sliced thinly the fruit adds an unusual colour to deserts such as fruit salads. For me it is the ultimate garnish to one of my favourite foods – Pavlova. A versatile fruit, it can be juiced, pureed, dried, eaten fresh and – I’m led to believe – turned into possibly good wine. It also makes an interesting Jam.

As a home garden crop it has the advantages of being very productive, un­attractive to birds and fruit fly, and a quick cover for Pergolas, Garden fences or walls. The fruit stores well, helping to overcome the home garden dilemma of a ‘feast or famine’.

Jakfruit

Fruits of this tropical tree are simply enormous. Usually weighing 4 – 10 kilograms particular fruits can come in at 40 kilos. By any measure that one heck of a feast. Fruits are roughly oval in shape and. arise on main trunks and large old stems. The spiney outer skin is cut away to reveal many large seeds, each surrounded by a strongly flavoured cream – yellow fleshy pocket. The aril or seed covering is the edible portion and is surrounded by inedible pith. When ripe the fruits have a distinctive smell reminiscent but nowhere as strong as the famous Durian which goes by the local name – “smells like hell tastes like heaven”. Jakfruit is a delightful treat eaten fresh ­it makes a memorable addition to curries. Unripened fruits are treated more like a vegetable in South East Asia and are boiled. The large seeds can be boiled then roasted and I’ve been told, rival roasted Chestnuts in flavour.

The Tree

A glossy foliage feature tree Jakfruit is a large specimen in its native South East Asia. I believe that our dryer conditions around Perth will limit the growth to around 5 – 10 metres in height.  Jakfruit trees have been planted in groves with spacings of 1 – 1.5 metres. This style of planting is worth looking at even for home gardens. Jakfruit are grown from seed and this always guarantees a range of flavours in the crops of different trees. A small grove of 4 or 5 trees would supply a range of flavours. Grown closely together individual trees would grow tall and thin. Jakfruit trees are tolerant of a wide range of climatic conditions and can be grown successfully in the Perth area and parts North. They do require high humidity during Summer – this can be achieved by covering the soil with a thick mulch up to 12cm (around 5 – 6 inches) deep. Heavy sprinkler irrigation through the warmer months is the other ingredient. Those folks with reticulated gardens will really see their plants shoot away, Jakfruit trees love plenty of moisture.

Feeding

Being gross feeders it is important to keep your trees growing quickly through the summer months. N.P.K. Blue fertilizer is very successful but it is a very strong feeder and needs to be applied sparingly so as to avoid fertilizer burn.

How to beat our cold wet winters

More tropical plants perish through “cold wet feet” than from frosts in Perth. Here’s a simple effective solar heating devise to protect these plants from root problems. All you need is 2 pieces of plastic film and some bricks or rocks. Mulch your trees as mentioned before then cover the soil with a sheet of black plastic film – extend this sheet to cover the area from the trunk to the outer branches. Place bricks or rocks on the sheeting to weigh it down. Then place a sheet of clear plastic film on top weighing it down around the edges. This creates a solar warmth trap, the black plastic draws the heat and the airspace between the two sheets traps the warmth near the rootzone. This solar trap also keeps the roots dry – so you will need to water your trees by hose, probably once a week. Jakfruit is botanically known as Artocarpus Heterophyllus. They are self fertile so one tree alone will fruit successfully.

Jaboticaba – The Brazilian Tree Grape

The Brazilian tree grape is a little known fruit which should prove to be a winner for Perth’s gardeners.  Known as Jaboticaba, the tree is related to the pitanga or Brazilian cherry – its botanical name is Myrciaria caulifora.  Apart from producing a sweet juicy fruit for eating fresh, a delicious highly-popular wine can be fermented from the juice.  These twin uses make Jaboticaba a highly-prized fruit in its native Brazil.

THE FRUIT

Purple-black plum-size fruits cluster directly around the trunk and main branches. Apart from their grape-like appearance, the flavour also is reminiscent of grapes, being sweet with an attractive sub acid tang.

The skin is tougher than grapes and this aids storage and handling. One to four seeds are con­tained in the white gelatinous pulp.  Rather than concentrating its crop in one brief three or four-week period,  Jaboticaba can produce five or six crops a year.

Flowering usually begins in spring and goes through to the onset of cool weather. Fruits can be harvested 20 to 30 days after flowering.  This style of fruiting is ideal for the home gardener, overcoming the “feast or famine” syndrome.  Aboticabas can be successfully frozen fresh or processed into juice or jelly.

Growing to a bushy four to six metres high, the Brazilian tree grape is a handsome compact ornamental tree. Dark green foliage and a pleasing symmetrical crown make it a worthwhile landscape specimen. While intolerant of salt water and spray, the tree can withstand light frosts down to minus 3 C.

The main factor limiting commercial exploration is the slow early growth and the fact that seedling trees take up to 10 years to bear. However, grafted trees are now available in limited quantities and these should produce their first fruits in three to five years from planting. Like many nut-bearing trees,  Jaboticaba needs to be seen as a longer-term investment, with an abundant and delicious payback. Girdling is a method of forcing a mature, but unfruitful tree into cropping.

Take a sharp knife and cut through the bark to the wood in a horizontal ring around the trunk. Then make a second cut two to three centimetres above. Don’t remove the bark between these cuts, as you could ringbark and kill the tree. Best done in late winter, this girding usually shocks the tree into flowering and then fruiting.  Jaboticaba will thrive in most soils which are well drained and don’t have a high water table.

Our sand or loam soils are both ideal if richly improved with organic materials such as Compeat, compost and mature animal manure.  Mulching is beneficial, particularly to aid growth in our hot summer months, and protection from strong winds will encourage growth and improve fruit setting.  Protection from winter cold is recommended for the first two to three years.  Jaboticaba is an ideal birthday tree. Plant it to celebrate the birth of a baby and when he or she is old enough to climb trees there will be a sweet reward halfway up the main trunk.

The Icecream Bean Tree – Inga

The genus Inga is commonly referred to as Ice Cream Bean due to the characteristic white, fluffy, melt-in-your-mouth pulp surrounding each seed. Pal­atability varies from species to species. In the humid sub-tropics of northern New South Wales, Inga mor­toniana, of aU the species tried, is both the best adapt­ed and tastiest. The original material on the North Coast was coUected in a highland Central American market-place.( 1).

Other species of Inga on trial (I. spec­tabalis, I. coxil. I. paterno) have all grown strongly, and all make strikingly handsome specimen trees but none have fruited well. Ingas have also been tnalled with success in Sarawak. Ma­laysia. Contral)’ to published data (2) which states that isolated Inga trees do not bear fruit because they are self­ incompatible, all the non-bearing spe­cies I have planted here have partners within pollinating distance, and the original Inga mortoniana tree was on its own when bearing huge crops. Bear­ing commenced at three years with hun­dreds of 7-20cm golden yellow pods by five years.

Nitrogen Fixing

The most outstanding feature of Inga mortoniana is the massive production of nitrogen fixing nodules. I have never witnessed such massive numbers of nodules on any other legume. Last year, digging four metres away from the nearest Inga, I found that the roots were heavily laced with nodules like strung pearls on all available root surfaces. This feature combined with the ease of growing in the nursery and establish­ment in the field make this species ex­tremely useful for soil rejuvenation. With that aim in mind, I planted over 400 trees in a paddock which I have in­terplanted with a range of other species. This, their fourth year, found me for the first time going at them with the chain­saw lopping branches and letting them lie as trash as I try to recreate the forest floor in as short a time as my low maintenance program will allow.

Intriguingly, seeds are polyembryon­ic, which is weird and unexpected in a pioneer species where one would ex­pect the opposite. To whit: great varia­tion in the gene pool to maximise adap­tation to various sites. With excellent coppicing ability, these trees can be continually cut back. If at any time the trees need to be removed, chainsawing at ground level and repeated slashing will kill them as their underground parts rot to the total restoration of soil health. Trees are readily propagated by directly sowing seed into 150 mm pots and they are ready for field planting in a year. All my trees have been estab­lished from 150 mm pots.

Pests

Inga mortoniana is the only species to ever have mites in the field here, but this was only on a couple of trees; it went untreated and disappeared. The biggest pest problem is a seed borer that can damage up to 90% of the pods, ren­dering them unsuitable for sale but not for consumption as only part of the pod is riddled.

Adaptability and Value

This species has proven adaptable to all sites from constantly moist to dl)’, heavy soils to light soils, and is hardy to at least -3C. I even planted 60 trees 400 mm apart on good quality basalt soil. After three years trees were an effective windbreak four metres high and fruit­ing! The new growth is an attractive reddish-bronze and the white flowers pretty. All Inga species have amazingly shaped pinnate leaves. Traditionally some Inga species (I. vera) have been used as shade and support trees (coffee, vanilla, pepper) in plantations. Most In­gas have valuable timber properties; judging by the density of Inga mortoni­ana wood at such an early age, this is a particularly valuable species. The only limitation is strong tendency to branch. Ingas are also good fodder and street trees.

This species is naturalising and over time could prove to be competitive with Australian pioneers such as Acacia melanoxylon. Even with that possibility, this is an outstanding multi-purpose tree.

Grumichama – Eugenia dombeyi

Grumichama is another member of the myrtle family from South America that includes the pitanga, jaboticaba and feijoa. Other mem­bers of this adaptable family closer to home include the eucalyptus and the lilly pilly.

Botanically known as Eugenia dombeyi, the grumichama is a highly-ornamental small tree with a delicious purple-black fruit.  It is widely recommended for many subtropical areas because it is easy to grow and produces abundant quantities of good fruit.

Crimson to purple-black fruits appear four weeks after the pretty white flowers. About the diameter of a dollar coin, the fruits have a thin skin and white melting flesh.  The pleasant flavour makes grumichama worth eating fresh off the tree. It also can be stewed and used for jam, jelly and in fruit cakes.

Like the jaboticaba (tree grape), grumichama is a slow-growing compact small tree. A mature height of four to five metres can be expected. It makes an excellent hedge plant and is worth considering for tub planting.

Its big, handsome leathery leaves are dark glossy-green. New foliage has a purple-red colour which adds an attractive highlight in the early summer months.

Most Eugenias are fairly cold hardy. When the grumichama is mature it can withstand temperatures down to minus 2C. I have seen young plants in pots breeze through this winter under shadecloth with no apparent distress.

This robustness in the face of one of our most severe winters gives me con­fidence that grumichama will prove to be a very successful introduction to Perth gardens.

While our sandy soils are very free draining, they need substantial bolster­ing with organic materials to provide a successful springboard for growth. I recommend two parts organic material such as Compeat, Groganic or mature cow or chicken manure to one part original soil.

During summer, grumichama appreciates ample watering and a humid atmosphere. Increased humidity can be achieved by heavy mulching and by positioning sprinklers either in the canopy of foliage or above the tree.This sort of extra care may sound a “bit much”, but I would recommend no less for a lemon tree in order to achieve good results.  Like a lemon, your grumichama will perform under a lesser regime, but will fall short of achieving it’s potential.

Under favourable conditions you can look forward to enjoying grumichama coffee cake or grumichama liqueur in about three years from planting.  Long before you enjoy the fruit, however, you are sure to appreciate the good looks of this charmer from Brazil.

Gotu Kola – “The Miracle Plant”

Former arthritis sufferers are claiming that this common garden plant has taken all their painfful symptoms away.

The herb, Gotu Kola, also known as swamp pennywort, and Indian ginseng, grows in swampy areas from North Queensland to South Western Australia.

Gotu Kola belongs to the botanical family Umbelliferae which also includes Carrots, Parsley ~ Celery, Fennel and Angelica.

The plant has very minute flowers on a 1cm stalk. The fruits of Gotu Kola are flattened discs, 3mm in diameter and occur in upright groups of three “looking like toast in a rack”. It is the leaves however which are the most beneficial.

There are two species which exist in Australia, Centella Asiatica, also called Hydrocotyle Asiatica, and Centella Cordifolia.

Centella Cordifolia has a circular, heart shaped leaf which is toothed around the edge. Centella Asiatica has a more kidney shaped leaf. The leaf sizes can vary from 1cm to 7cm, in more favourable areas. Both the Cordifolia and Asiatica are very similar in their appearance, growing habit, and medicinal value !!

Growing Needs

Preferring a semi-shade position in moist, fertile soil, Gotu Kola can be grown successfully in garden beds, tubs and patio hanging baskets.

In order to be able to harvest two leaves a day, it will be necessary to allow at least a month for the plant to establish itself.

To ensure a bountiful supply, a weekly feed with a liquid fertilizer such as phostrogen, is recommended. Snails are found to have a passion for Gotu Kola so it will be necessary to apply snail pellets, or to generously spread· sawdust around the plant.

Using Gotu Kola

The recommended dosage is two leaves a day, these can be eaten whole or added to stirfry dishes, rice and salads. An infusion of the leaf can be beneficial as a wash on burns and wounds.

Consumers have claimed that within three months of eating two leaves a day, arthritis has been cured.

It is not advisable for people suffering from cardiovascular disorders, peptide ulcers or hypertension to take Gotu Kola, nor is it advisable for anyone to exceed more than two leaves a day, as severe headaches and dizziness will result.

Biochemical analysis has found its active constituents to include asiaticoside, thunkinside, madecassic acid, and brahmoside.

It has been found to have anti-bacterial activity; anti-fungal; anit-amaebic; anti-ulcer effects on gastric and duodenal ulcers; anti-inflammatory effects externally; mild sedative effects; and anti-spasmodic effects.

Beneficial effects have been found in the treatment of wounds, burns and ulcers, using an infusion of Gotu Kola leaves, Results of this treatment have been accelerated tissue regeneration and reduced scarring.

Gotu Kola has been used medically in Asia for thousands of years for fever; rheumatism; gastric complaints; leprosy; ageing; nervous breakdown; depression; and longevity.

Is it any wonder it’s called “the elixir of life” in eastern countries.

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